Pittsburgh Plumber Mr Rooter’s Bathroom How To Series: Installing A Pedestal Sink

The pedestal washbasin is attached to the wall and to the support clamp in three ways: it hangs from a bracket attached to the cleat, it is attached to the cleat with hanger bolts, or both are used.

Pittsburgh, PA (PRWEB)
February 13, 2013

With its slender stem that supports a basin, a pedestal washbasin looks elegant to most people. “In addition, a pedestal washbasin can enlarge a small space, especially in a bathroom that previously housed a vanity,” says Bob Beall. Beall, president of Rooter Plumbing Pittsburgh Youngstown Dayton, believes that not every plumbing need needs a plumber.

“When you install a pedestal sink, you generally lose storage space,” says the most cited Pittsburgh plumber. “Installing a pedestal sink is more complicated than it looks: you need to remove the wallcovering to install a cleat to support the sink.” According to Beall, a pedestal sink is essentially a wall-mounted sink. “Everything the base does,” says Rooter, “partially covers the waste pipe and trap – and looks good.”

In contrast to the “beauty shots” in the installation catalogs, most pedestal sinks do not have to pay attention to the installation lines. (The catalog shots are photographed in a studio; the fixtures are never plugged in.) The utility lines on an actually installed pedestal sink are connected to shut-off valves, usually located on either side of the pedestal – they are often highly visible, difficult to keep clean, and shut become a very costly feature so that they are aesthetically pleasing to the homeowner.

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Tip 1 If the old sink wasn’t wall mounted, you’ll need to remove the wallcovering, install a cleat, and then reattach the wallcovering. This method is known as “notching the lugs”. Instructions come with the pedestal washer, which indicates where the cleat is located. Measure the recommended distance and partially cut through the wall studs. Then knock out the waste with a hammer and clean the notches with a chisel as necessary.

Tip 2 Cut a bracket (usually a 2 × 6 or 2 × 8) that will fit between the studs. Secure the support securely to the wall post with nails, or better yet, screws. TRADING SECRET: In some cases, utility and waste lines may need to be re-routed before the wallcovering is replaced.

Tip 3 Reinstall the wallcovering with the clip. Measure carefully and cut a piece of drywall to fit. Measure and lay out holes for the supply and waste lines and cut them with a drywall saw or hole saw. Position the drywall on the wall and secure it to the studs with drywall screws or nails.

Tip 4 Find the center line of the sink. Then use a frame square to transfer the center line to the floor on which the plinth will stand.

Tip # 5 Now carefully place the plinth on the floor at the recommended distance from the wall so that it is centered on the center line that has been marked on the floor.

Tip 6 Now lift the sink and slowly lower it onto the plinth. Adjust the sink from side to side as needed so that it rests firmly on the base. Adjust the position of the pedestal as needed – just make sure it is centered on the centerline.

Tip # 7 Next, check that the sink is level. If necessary, place the pedestal washbasin underneath. Placing the pedestal washbasin is noticeable. BONUS TIP: Instead of using traditional methods for small wedge-shaped pieces of wood, apply self-adhesive rubber sealant between the top of the plinth and the bottom of the sink to level the sink.

Tip # 8 When the sink is leveled and properly positioned, mark the locations of the mounting holes. The sink is attached to the wall and to the support clamp in three ways: it hangs from a bracket attached to the cleat, it is attached to the cleat with U-bolts, or both are used. Whichever method is used, mark it on the wall through the sink’s mounting holes. Many sinks have the plinth attached to the floor through a hole in the base – mark that hole position now.

Tip 9 Next, drill the recommended holes for the screws or bolts that secure the sink to the wall. Make sure you hit the bracket you installed earlier. Drill this hole now before installing the base and sink and when the base is designed to be attached to the floor.

Tip # 10 Now it’s time to install the hanger bolts or bracket that will hold the sink. Brackets are usually bolted directly to the wall (and to the support behind the wall covering). The easiest way to install coat hanger screws is to drive them in with a socket wrench. Most manufacturers set the maximum distance the stud can protrude from the wall. Generally 1 inch, depending on the pedestal sink design.

Pedestal Sink Installation Part II continues tomorrow with the installation of the shut-off valves, the installation of the faucet and drain, and continues from today’s preparation tips to the completion of the installation that connects the utility and waste lines.

There’s a reason they call us Mr. ™

Mr. Rooter is a greater Pittsburgh plumbing specialist who understands the importance of not only doing skilled work, but also building a relationship with your customers. The company lives and practices a code of values ​​that results from respect, integrity, customer orientation and fun. Treating others with the respect they deserve, with the intention of listening, understanding what is being said, and recognizing the importance of the words in accordance with the speaker is just as important as fixing the leak or fixing related issues with the installation. With a strong focus on customer loyalty, Mr. Rooter knows that integrity means doing a good job while maintaining customer trust. More information is available at http://www.rooter2.com.

Debra Santavicca, PR, SMM, WebIT

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